I’ve always been a fan of building residential entry doors. There is something about working on three planes that fascinates me. Making clients happy and at ease in their homes also makes me happy. Nothing is more satisfying than knowing that a job was done right when you see and feel an elegant and well-installed door work effortlessly.
Modern home building techniques mean that most houses built throughout this area in the Salt Lake City area after the mid-1960s have been constructed using 2×4 or 2×6 wooden stick frame construction, with an exterior brick veneer stucco, stucco, or a kind that is lap-siding. Before this time, the majority, if not all, houses around here were constructed with four-inch-wide bricks (4″x8″x16″) walls made of www.buildingconnects.com with an exterior brick veneer.
The thermal efficiency of the latest doors has been greatly improved compared to what was offered 50 or forty years before. The new jambs can be air-tight with weather stripping in vinyl and adjustable thresholds using bottom sweeps of vinyl. Metal or fiberglass doors are sandwiched by foam insulation. The doors that have windows come equipped with thermal glass. The installation of a new entry into an older home is now a sought-after renovation.
Putting in an entry door system that has been pre-hung (including jambs) to a new wooden stick frame is typically reasonably straightforward. You can nail or, ideally, screw jambs into framing studs that are behind. If there are any adjustments that you need to make, you can take the nail off or back out of the screw, then re-align the jamb with the builder’s shims and attempt again. What about retrofitting a new entry door system in an older house with cinderblock walls?
Using the same method of nailing through the jambs is impossible. The walls will be bending and deflecting a regular framing nail. Cutting nails may be effective, but the odds for jamb alignment adjustments are close to none, and the possibility of cracks in the masonry or half-moon hammerheads in the jambs is particular. Masonry Estimates screws must start in pre-drilled holes in cinderblocks, which may be drilled through the post. However, I’ve not been satisfied with their hold power on its own, and the cinderblock is susceptible to splintering around the holes when adjusting screws and tightening shims. The experience I’ve had have taught me how to put plastic expansion sleeves inside the cinderblock to secure screws for masonry.
I believe that direct installation of brick is the most difficult challenge for entry doors, where the patience and skills of a carpenter will be testable. You only have one chance of getting it right. Screw holes in the cinderblock do not permit incremental jambs adjustments. This is where carpentry becomes art. You must think and think creatively. The satisfaction that comes from the properly constructed door in this instance is, for me, at least its genuine excitement.
In the first site visit to assess the door, it is recommended tap the walls to check whether they’re plaster or drywall. Of course, you’ll want to test the threshold step to determine if it’s the level. Carpenters don’t make assumptions, is correct? The measurement of the exterior brick opening’s overall height from threshold to lintel is noted. Any other doubts regarding constructing a home using masonry walls can be resolved at a minimum by measuring the outside brick openings across the entire size. If the measurement is off by a quarter-inch from the actual open brick is a guaranteed indicator that you’ll be confronted with a direct connection to masonry. Make adjustments to your estimate of the installation to allow for additional labor.